You can create such an area by hanging an inexpensive vinyl shower curtain in a corner of your shop. This will allow the finish to dry faster, so you can sand the surface sooner. Let it be, and it will flatten out. Using a wax, furniture polish or other kinds of products will cause an adhesion issue for new polyurethane (it will bubble and peel off like a sunburn). Even though it does dry quickly, keep in mind that every finish needs time to “cure” and harden. You can then apply three coats of polyurethane to your floor, allowing each coat to dry, then sanding it and cleaning the floor in between coats. Many times you can recoat your exisiting finish by buffing it down and applying a new coat over the old. 3. The floor poly just has a harder finish that would wear better for foot traffic. After each coat, re-dip the roller in mineral spirits and put it into a zippered plastic bag for the next coat and leave the wet tray to dry. Drying and curing times are increased in high humidity, so always be cautious before using your freshly-finished floor. Hand sand corners, edges and under cabinet kick plates. (Skip the stain if you intend to leave your workpiece natural-color.) Typically, when you are thinning out oil-based polyurethane or oil-based varnish, you will be working with mineral spirits. Lightly sand with a dull 120 to 150 grit abrasive screen or #2 steel wool under a heavy floor buffer. Between coats of polyurethane, examine the surface of the wood for imperfections in the finish. The pro’s will call it a buff and recoat. Either poly would have the same appearance. Wipe away the dust and then apply the next coat of polyurethane. The process: 1. Minimize this problem by applying thinner coats or by switching from standard brush-on poly to a wipe-on or spray finish, both of which can be applied in very thin coats. Apply stain and poly Move to a low-dust setting: somewhere without lots of foot traffic and with dust-free surfaces. It's best to apply polyurethane to flat (as in level) surfaces so the finish can self-level and is less likely to drip. With your workpiece wiped clean, apply stain, photo below. The usual ratio is about 3 or 4 parts varnish to one part of the mineral spirits. First of all, you need to think about ratios. Sand the small bubbles and drip marks with fine grit sandpaper. Avoid shoes and bare feet. If you already have an open can of the floor poly I would go ahead and use it otherwise I would save money and get the standard poly. Start by choosing a type of polyurethane (oil or water-based) as well as a finish (matte or glossy), and make sure your work area is well-ventilated. I keep a can of spray poly handy in case of bubbles. Avoid heavy traffic, and do not install rugs or clean floors for seven days. When applying polyurethane on vertical surfaces, you may experience drips or runs. Apply the first coat of polyurethane, thinning it out with up to half of its volume of paint thinner. Can polyurethane floors be recoated? If Minwax® Sanding Sealer is used prior to Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors, apply following the label directions. Q: How soon after the third coat of poly can you walk on polyurethane floors / hardwood floor?How soon after the third coat of poly can you put the furniture back on the floor? And, make sure your pets don't walk on the floors … Much less expensive and invasive. Also, we have noticed what looks like dust or sanding particles in the finish. Yes, a polyurethane-finished hardwood floor may have additional coats of polyurethane applied. 4-6 hrs before you can walk on the floors; Hours 6-24, you can walk on the floors with socks. 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